Hi guys, today I will share with you a simple basic sleeve block tutorial.
I hope that by following this process you can create a well-fitting sleeve block that can be used along with your bodice block. You can access the post for making the bodice block here.
A basic sleeve block along with a bodice block is a great starting point for creating endless designs for blouses, shirts, dresses, blazers, jackets and coats.
I used the method from Micheal Rohr’s pattern making book to create this sleeve block but created with my with my personal measurements.
Here is a toile of the sleeve I made using this block.
I hope that by following this guide, you can create your own sleeve block and achieve your desired fit.
I will share with you below the process of how I created my bespoke sleeve block.
You will start with taking your measurements and writing them down. You can use the chart below as your guide for reference points to measure. See below for a printable measurement chart.
I have included a printable pdf measurement chart here which you can print out to record your measurements.
I have also attached below a Printable PDF step by step guide guide. It might help to print it out and and tick each step as you go along.
Easy Steps To Make Your Sleeve Block
Let’s begin.
Here I start with a blank pattern paper, at least the size of your arm circumference plus 5 inches and OVERARM LENGTH plus 5 inches.
A to B – Equals OVERARM LENGTH measurement.
B to C – Equals UNDERARM LENGTH measurement. Mark point C on line A-B. (Note A-C equals cap height)**
C to D – Equals half of (arm circumference plus ease). Square this line across at point C
| C to E – Same amount as C to D. Square across at C |
B to F – Equals half of B to C. Mark point F on A-B line for elbow line position
F to G – Equals half of (elbow measurement plus ease)
| F to H – Same amount as F to G. Square across at F |
| B to I – Equals F to G less 1’’. Square across at point B |
| B to J – Same amount as B to I. Square across at point B |
I to K – Draw line from I to K through G and D, bringing point K to the level of point A
J to L – Draw line from J to L through G and D, bringing point L to the level of point A. Connect K to L
Now draw the Guide lines for sleeve cap
A to M – Equals ¼ of A to K
D to N – Equals ¼ of D to C
Connect M to N
| M to O – Equals ½ of M to N. Mark point O on line M-N |
A to P – Equals ¼ of A to L
E to O – Equals 1/6 of E to C
Connect P-Q
P to R – Equals ½ of P to Q. Mark point R on line P-Q
Now complete the sleeve cap
Draw half inch guidelines as shown from points M, N, P, Q
| A to D – Draw curved cap line from A to D through Q for front of sleeve cap as indicated |
| A to E – Draw curved cap line from A to E through R for back of sleeve cap as indicated |
Your sleeve block is now complete. You can use it like this for loose fitting sleeve. Remember to add seam allowance!
Continue The Following Steps For Fitted Sleeve
| I to S – Equals wrist + ease measure. |
Mark point S on line I-J
| S to T – ¾’’. Square a line down at point S |
| I to U – Equals half of I to B |
| U to T – Connect; then draw curved line from T to I |
T to H – Mark down 5/8’’ from H and Connect T to H
Finally,
| Draw V-shaped ELBOW DART; Mark up from H 5/8’’ for the dart. |
Note: The back edge of sleeve, from E to H to T, is 1 ¼’’ longer than front edge, from D to G to I. Make V-shaped dart 1 ¼’’ wide and 3 ½’’ long at elbow as indicated, making upper line of dart parallel to elbow line
Your fitted block is now completed. Remember to add seam allowance!
