Hi guys, today I will share with you a simple basic bodice block tutorial.
I hope that by following this process you can create a well-fitting bodice block for yourself like I did.
What is a basic bodice?
A basic bodice is the body of a blouse or top; the garment worn on the upper part of your body.
A basic bodice block is a great starting point for creating endless designs; It can be used on its own or be paired with a sleeve block to make blouses, shirts, dresses, blazers, jackets and coats.
I used the method from Micheal Rohr’s pattern making book to create this block but with personal adaptations. In my opinion, this book is a very useful resource for any one serious about creating their own patterns.
I have created my bespoke bodice block because I have adapted the measurements and proportions in this method to achieve the necessary fit for my body type. Hence the result of my first toile was a good fit that did not need much adjustment. Here is a photo of my first toile:
I hope that by following my adapted calculations, it works for you too and you can achieve your desired fit.
I will share with you below the process of how I created my bespoke bodice block.
You will start with taking your measurements and writing them down. You can use the chart below as your guide for reference points to measure. See below for a printable measurement chart.
I have included a printable pdf measurement chart here which you can print out to record your measurements.
I have also attached below a Printable PDF step by step guide guide. It might help to print it out and and tick each step as you go along.
Easy Steps To Make Your Bodice Block
Here I start with a blank pattern paper, at least the the size of 1/2 Bust width plus 4 inches and Front Shoulder height plus 4 inches.
A to B – Equals BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT measurement
A to C – Equals ½ of ACROSS BACK measure, plus 3/8’ (plus 5/8 for heavier figures with more rounded back)’
C to D is the Back shoulder slope depth, then square at C. Use 2’’ for all sizes
|D to E – Equals SHOULDER SEAM plus 1/4 inch (plus 1/2” for heavier figures to accommodate a more rounded back ’’|
|B to F – Equals CENTER BACK LENGTH measurement. E to F – Curve a line for back neck and remember to square at F|
|F to G – Equals half of B to F plus ¾’’ and increase up to 1¼’’ for heavier figures with height 5 feet 4” and below. G to H – Equals half of bust measurement plus 1’‘ so as to account for the ease which we are incorporating into the bodice block|
|F to I – Equals half of F to G|
I to J – Equals half of ACROSS BACK measurement. G to M – Equals half of G to H less ¼’’
|G to K – Equals line I to J then connect J to K|
|K to L – Draw diagonal line at 45 degrees angle. Distance of 1 1/4 inch. You can increase this measurement for bigger bust sizes or decrease for smaller bust sizes.|
D to M – Curve back armhole line from D to J to L to M
Now draw the back armhole…
Now lets create the front…
|A to N – Equals bust line G to H|
|N to O – Equals FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHT plus 2’’|
O to P – Equals FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHT measurement
P to Q – Equals half of ACROSS CHEST, measure plus 3/8’’
|Q to R – Front shoulder slope depth. Use 1 1/4 for all sizes|
|R to S – Equals SHOULDER SEAM measurement|
|O to T – Equals CENTER FRONT LENGTH measurement|
|P to U – Equals P to S plus 1/2 ‘’ draw 45 degrees angle|
|S to T – Curve neckline from S to U to T|
|T to V – Equals half of T to H|
|V to W – Equals half of ACROSS CHEST measurement|
H to X – Equals line V to M. Then connect W to X
|X to Y – Draw diagonal line at 45 degrees angle. Distance of 1 inch. You can increase this measurement for bigger bust sizes or decrease for smaller bust sizes.|
|R to M – Curve front armhole line from R to W to Y to M|
|H to Z – The distance between bust and breast line|
Z to AA – Equals H to M plus 3/8’’, then square at Z
M to BB – Equals SIDE SEAM LENGTH (through point AA). So we have now created the side seam which divides the front and the back bodice>
G to CC – Equals half of I to J
B to DD – Equals G to CC less ¾’’
DD to EE – Back waist dart measure. Connect DD to CC to EE for dart.
|Z to FF – Equals half of V to W plus ½’’|
|O to GG – Equals Z to FF less ¾’’|
|GG to HH – Half of front dart; then connect from HH to BB to EE|
|HH to II – Half of front dart; then connect GG to FF to II for dart|
Now the Back shoulder dart…
Draw Back SHOULDER DART; draw a guideline from middle of back shoulder to CC. Mark 1/8” on each side of the line (so total dart intake will be 1/4”) then mark down 3 inches and draw in dart legs (For heavier figures use 1/4” on each side of the line so that total dart intake at back shoulder will be 1/2”)
And voila! your bodice block is done.
Here is the link to access the Micheal Rohr book