Friday, May 24, 2024

How to use your basic bodice / torso block to make a toile

In this post, I will be sharing with you how you can use your basic bodice / torso block to make a toile.

Though most people tend to generally refer to both as bodice block, ideally, If your block is only up to the waist, this is called a bodice block and if up to the hip, it is called a torso block. However for the purpose of this post, I will use bodice block to refer to both.

A toile is also known as a muslin or a mock-up and is an essential step in the process of creating a well-fitted garment.

Here are the steps to make your toile:

  1. Prepare your basic bodice block: Start by creating a basic bodice block that fits your measurements. This can be done by following a pattern drafting tutorial or using a commercial pattern as a guide. Make sure that the bodice block is accurate and fits you well. Making a block using your personal measurements is a good way to ensure accuracy and great fit. Click here for my Pattern Drafting Manual which will help you to draft your bodice / torso blocks and sleeve blocks using your personal measurements. Creating a block that is specifically made for your body and shape, will provide a solid foundation for making clothes that fit you beautifully.
  2. Choose your fabric: For making a toile, it is best to use a plain, inexpensive cotton or muslin fabric. This will allow you to easily make adjustments without worrying about ruining an expensive fabric.
  3. Cut out the toile: Using your basic bodice block as a template, cut out the toile from the fabric. Make sure to add seam allowances to the edges of the fabric if they are not included in your basic bodice block. Ensure that you have marked the grainline properly and follow them in the placement of your pattern.
  4. Pin and sew the toile: Start with sewing the darts; front and back. Then pin the toile together along the seams, using a long basting stitch, sew the seams.
  5. Try the toile on and adjust the fit as necessary. Make sure to check the fit at the shoulders, bust, waist, and hips, and adjust as needed.
  6. Make necessary adjustments: If the toile is too loose or too tight in some areas, mark the adjustments with a fabric pen or chalk. You can make adjustments by adding or removing fabric, or by taking in or letting out seams.
  7. Re-cut and sew the toile: Once you have made the necessary adjustments, re-cut the toile using the adjusted pattern pieces. Pin and sew the toile together again, using a regular stitch length. Try it on again to check the fit. Repeat this process until you are satisfied with the fit.
  8. Transfer adjustments to the bodice block: When you are happy with the fit of the toile, transfer the adjustments to your basic bodice block. Make sure to update the pattern pieces and markings as necessary.

By following these steps, you can use your basic bodice block to make a toile and achieve a well-fitted garment. It may take some time and effort, but the end result will be worth it.

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