How To Draft A Simple Knit Bodice Block With Sleeve Professionally

Before we delve into how to draft a simple knit bodice block with sleeve professionally, I would like to share with you in detail why you should draft a knit block and what you can make from it.

Why You Should Draft a Knit Bodice Block (And What You Can Make From It)

Hey friends! Let’s have a cozy little chat about something that completely changed how I sew with knits: drafting my own knit bodice block. If you’ve ever gotten frustrated trying to make store-bought knit patterns fit just right or spent way too much time tweaking every pattern you download—this one’s for you.

I used to shy away from drafting anything knit because I thought it was more complicated than it’s worth. Like, isn’t the whole point of knits that they stretch and forgive you when the fit is off? That’s what I told myself every time I settled for a top that fit okay. But after finally drafting a custom knit bodice block to my own measurements, I’ll never go back. It’s not just about the fit (though wow, that part is amazing)—it’s about freedom.

So, let me walk you through the benefits and show you just how many wardrobe staples you can whip up once you’ve got your block. Spoiler alert: it’s a LOT.

First Off—What Is a Knit Bodice Block?

Think of it as your blueprint. It’s a basic, fitted bodice made for knit fabrics, drafted to your exact measurements, that you can use as the starting point for pretty much any knit top or dress. Unlike a woven block, which needs darts and ease, your knit block accounts for stretch and is usually dart-free unless you’re working with a large bust.

You draft it based on your actual body, then subtract what’s called negative ease to match the stretch percentage of your fabric. That way, your final garments hug your body just right without being too tight or saggy.

Why Draft One Instead of Just Using a Pattern?

Great question—and here’s why I’m so passionate about this:

1. No More Fit Roulette

Every pattern designer has a different block they draft from. That means if you’re not shaped like their “average,” you’re going to be making adjustments every. single. time. When you draft your own knit block, you’re starting with something that already fits you. From there, you can design anything without reinventing the wheel.

2. Total Design Freedom

You want a wrap top with a sweetheart neckline? A square-neck tank dress? A mock-neck, long-sleeve bodysuit? Once you’ve got your block, you can transform it into basically any style you can dream up—no more digging through patterns that are almost what you want.

3. Consistency Across Garments

Because you’re always starting from the same well-fitting base, your me-made clothes suddenly look way more polished and cohesive. Plus, you’ll sew faster because you skip the whole muslin-and-adjustment drama.

4. You Learn So Much About Your Body

This part surprised me the most. Drafting a block forces you to actually observe how your body is shaped. Where are you longer or shorter than average? Where do you carry fullness? It’s empowering—especially if you’ve struggled with fit in ready-to-wear clothes.

What Can You Actually Make From a Knit Bodice Block?

SO. MANY. THINGS.

Let me break it down by category and show you how one block can turn into a whole wardrobe.

🧶 Tops

• Basic T-shirt – The classic. Crew neck, scoop neck, V-neck—you can tweak the neckline to your taste and call it done.
• Tank tops – Just remove the sleeves and reshape the armholes. Crop it, lengthen it, add a shelf bra—it’s all yours.
• Turtleneck or mock neck tops – Add a higher neckline and maybe long sleeves, and suddenly you’ve got a sleek, modern basic.
• Wrap tops – Slice and reshape the front for a wrap design (either true wrap or faux). You can even make it a peplum if you’re feeling cute.
• Asymmetrical tops – Think off-the-shoulder, one-shoulder, or cold-shoulder styles. All doable with your block!

👗 Dresses

• T-shirt dress – Literally just lengthen your block and maybe add a slight A-line flare.
• Bodycon dress – Use a fabric with high stretch and keep the silhouette close to your block for that sleek, sculpted look.
• Fit and flare dress – Use the bodice block for the top, then attach a gathered or circle skirt.
• Wrap dress – Again, modify the front bodice to create a wrap, and match it with any skirt style you like.
• Tank dress or maxi – Add some length, scoop out the armholes, and voila—perfect summer dress.

👚 Loungewear & Activewear

• Fitted knit pajamas – Short sleeve, long sleeve, even henley style—all can be drafted from your base.
• Athletic tops – Add a built-in bra or extra seams for style and support.
• Cropped hoodies or sweatshirts – Just give it a bit more ease, maybe draft a hood, and you’ve got your new favorite lounge piece.

🩱 Bodysuits & Base Layers

• Bodysuit – Add a crotch extension and snap closure, or sew it up as a one-piece. Layer it with jeans or wear under a sheer dress.
• Thermal base layers – Adjust for warmth or snugness depending on what you’re doing (ski trip? indoor coziness?).

🌞 Summer Vibes

• Knit romper – Combine your bodice with shorts, and you’ve got an instant outfit.
• Swimsuit top (for simple designs) – With the right swim fabric and lining, your block can even become the basis for a swim top or rash guard.

Final Tips for Getting Started

• Use a reliable stretch knit for your draft—something with 4-way stretch and good recovery. Cotton-spandex blends are ideal.
• Take accurate measurements. Don’t rush this part. If you’re unsure, ask a friend to help or use a mirror.
• Test in a similar fabric. When you first draft your block, test it in the type of knit you plan to sew most often. A block for lightweight jersey will fit differently than one for ponte or ribbed knit.
• Label and keep it safe! Once you’ve perfected it, trace it onto sturdy paper or card and label it with the stretch % it’s based on.

So… Is It Worth It?

Absolutely. Drafting my knit bodice block was like unlocking cheat mode in sewing. I sew more often, with more confidence, and I actually wear what I make. It’s one of the most empowering things you can do for your sewing practice.

So if you’ve been hesitating—don’t overthink it. Start simple, draft your block, and get ready to fall in love with your handmade wardrobe all over again.

Happy sewing, friends! 🧵

Now to the fun part – steps to drafting your own simple knit bodice block with sleeve professionally. I have also provided you with a step by step drafting tutorial pdf to make the process easier for you. Click here to access the pdf.

Step by Step Process on How To Draft A Simple Knit Bodice Block With Sleeve Professionally

HOW TO DRAFT THE BACK 

STEP 1

A to B – Equals BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT measurement

A to C – Equals half of ACROSS BACK measure.

C to D – 1 ¼ inches. Square line down from line A-C for shoulder slope point.

STEP 2

D to E – Equals SHOULDER LENGTH . Draw line D to E, locating point E somewhere on line A-C

B to F – Equals CENTER BACK LENGTH. Mark point F on line A-B

E to F – Draw curved neckline from E to F, squaring neckline across at point F.

STEP 3

F to G – Equals half of CENTER BACK LENGTH

G to H – Equals quarter of BUST CIRCUMFERENCE. Square across at G

F to I – Equals half of F to G.

I to J – Equals half of ACROSS BACK measurement minus ¼ inch. Square across at I

G to K – Equals I to J width.

K to L – 1 inch (increase or reduce for bigger or smaller sizes respectively). Draw

diagonal line D to H – Draw armhole line from D to J to Lto H.

STEP 4

B to M – Equals G to H. Square across at B for waistline.

Connect M to H for side line. For a more fitted look you could taper at the waist as desired after extending pattern to your desired length.

HOW TO DRAFT THE FRONT

STEP 1

A to B – Equals FRONT SHOULDER

HEIGHT measurement

A to C – Same as ACROSS BACK measure minus ¼ inch

C to D – 2 inches. Square line down from line A-C for shoulder slope point.

STEP 2

D to E – Equals SHOULDER LENGTH.

Draw line D to E, locating point E somewhere on line A-C

B to F – Equals CENTER FRONT LENGTH. A to A1 – Equals A to E. Draw diagonal line. Draw curved neckline from E to F through A1, squaring neckline across at F and squaring down at E.

STEP 3

B to G – Equals same distance as B to G on our back block.

G to H – Equals quarter of BUST CIRCUMFERENCE. Square across at G F to I – Equals half of F to G.

I to J – Equals half of ACROSS CHEST measurement minus ¼ inch. Square across at I

G to K – Equals I to J width.

K to L – 1inch (increase or reduce for bigger or smaller sizes respectively). Draw diagonal line.

D to H – Draw armhole line from D to J to L to H.

STEP 4

B to M – Equals G to H. Square across at B for waistline. Connect M to H for side line. For a more fitted look you could taper at the waist as desired after extending pattern to your desired length.

HOW TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE

 STEP 1

A to B – Equals OVERARM LENGTH measurement. Draw straight line from A to B.

B to C – Equals UNDERARM LENGTH measurement plus 1 inch. Mark point C on the A-B (A to C equals cap height).

C to D – Equals half of ARM CIRCUMFERENCE. Square this line across at point C.

C to E – Same amount as C to D. Square across at C.

STEP 2

B to F – Equals half of B to C. Mark point F on line A-B for elbow line position.

F to G – Equals half of ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE. Square this line across at point F.

F to H – Same amount as F to G. Square across at F.

STEP 3

B to I – Equals half of WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE. Square across at point B.

B to J – Same amount as B to I. Square across at point B

I to K – Draw line from I to K through G and D, bringing point K to the level of point A. (Note it may go past point G so don’t worry).

J to L – Draw line J to L through H and E, bringing point K to the level of point A. . (Also, note it may go past point H so don’t worry).

Connect K to L.

STEP 4

A to M – Equals ¼ of A to K.

D to N – Equals ¼ of D to C. Connect M to N

M to O – Equals ½ of M to N. Mark point O on line M-N.

A to P – Equals ¼ of A to L.

E to Q – Equals 1/6 of E to C. Connect P to Q.

P to R – Equals ½ of P to Q. Mark point R on line P-Q.

STEP 5

Draw ½ inch guidelines as demonstrated on the video creating new points at M, N, P and Q.

Draw curved cap line from A to D through point O (follow the new points at N and M).

Draw curved cap line from A to E through point P (follow the new points at Q and P).

Watch On Youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxprR7r2XR8&t=31s

Photos of some designs I have made using this knit block and sleeve block:

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To download PDF guide click here