What is Pattern Making? A Useful Guide

What is pattern making?: The Art of Crafting Perfect Garments

Pattern making is the process of creating templates from which you will sew your garments. These templates, often made from paper or cardboard, are essential blueprints that guide how you will cut your fabric and how you will assemble them together to achieve a perfect fit. 

As a pattern-making tutor with 30+ years of experience in the sewing world, I’ve seen first hand how crucial a well-made pattern is to the success of any garment. 

In this post ‘What is pattern making’ we will cover the following contents.

Table Of Contents

1. Introduction to Pattern Making
2. What is Pattern Making?
3. The Two Forms That Pattern-Making Comes In
4. The History of Pattern Making
5. Why is Pattern Making Important in Garment Construction?
6. Real-Life Example: How Pattern Making Saved a Special Occasion Dress
7. Pattern Making Tools & Step by Step Guide
8. Pattern Making Terminology for Beginners
9. Best Pattern Making Books 
10. Free Pattern Making PDFs For You To Download

Whether you’re new to sewing or an experienced tailor, understanding pattern making can transform your approach to clothing construction.

In this pattern making guide, I’ll walk you through the fundamentals, provide real-life examples from my decades of work, and share some invaluable resources, including free pattern-making PDFs and the best books to master the craft.

What is Pattern Making?

The Definition of Pattern Making

Pattern making is the process of creating a template for a garment, from measurements or by draping on a dress form. This template is then be used to cut fabric and assemble it into a wearable product. 

The process of translating the measurements and design of a garment into a flat, two-dimensional form that can be used to cut fabric is known as Flat pattern making. 

In simple terms, it’s the craft of creating the “blueprint” for clothing. Every stitch, dart, pleat, and seam you see in finished garments was first mapped out in a pattern.

Patterns come in two forms

– Commercial Patterns: These are Pre-designed patterns which are made from more general body measurement, and is often found in sewing stores, and allow hobbyists to replicate popular designs.

– Custom Patterns: These are made to specific measurements and are used by professional dressmakers, tailors, designers and home dressmakers to create custom garments for clients or self.

The History of Pattern Making

While modern technology has transformed pattern making, its origins are rooted in centuries-old practices. Historically, tailors and dressmakers used rudimentary methods to replicate garment shapes, but by the 19th century, companies like Butterick started selling commercial patterns, revolutionizing home sewing.

Why is Pattern Making Important in Garment Construction?

Pattern making is the foundation of garment design. Without it, sewing would be chaotic and inconsistent. Imagine trying to sew a dress without knowing exactly where the bust dart or waistline should be! 

Patterns ensure that every piece of fabric aligns perfectly, helping you achieve professional, well-fitting garments.

Real-Life Example: How Pattern Making Saved a Special Occasion Dress

I once worked on a custom Confirmation dress for a client. Her dream gown had intricate lace and a fitted bodice. Without the right pattern, achieving her vision would have been impossible. By carefully drafting a custom pattern, we ensured that every detail—from the lace appliqué to the train—was perfectly proportioned. The result? A dress she loved, and a memory I treasure. 

Pattern Making Guide: Step-by-Step

Tools You’ll Need for Pattern Making

Before diving into pattern making, gather these essential tools:

• Measuring Tape: To capture body measurements accurately.
• Pattern Paper: Sturdy paper for drawing your patterns.
• French Curve & Ruler: Essential for drawing smooth lines and curves.
• Pencils & Erasers: To sketch out your pattern, knowing revisions will be part of the process.
• Dress Form: Optional but useful for draping and visualizing garment shapes.
• Tracing Wheel and Carbon Paper: For transferring patterns onto fabric.

Step 1: Take Accurate Body Measurements

The first and most important step in pattern making is taking accurate measurements. Key measurements include:

• Bust, Waist, and Hip Circumference
• Neck to Waist Length
• Shoulder Width
• Armhole Circumference

Step 2: Create a Basic Block

A very basic block (or sloper) is a simple, loose-fitting block without seam allowances, darts, or styling details. It serves as the foundation for more complex designs. For example, the bodice block helps create everything from blouses to evening gowns.

I have a tutorial pdf called Dressmaking Course 101 (with video links for each step) for drafting your fitted torso / bodice block which caters for different cup sizes. Click here to get it.

You can check out my previous post here, on how to draft a basic dartless bodice from your measurements. I also have a pdf for a token amount if you prefer to have the guide in pdf format.[Download it here!]

You can also check out my blog post here, where I share detailed step by step process on creating a darted bodice block using Michael Rohr Pattern Drafting Method and here for creating the and sleeve block. However, note that this does not cater for different bust cups.

Once you have drafted your torso / bodice blocks, you can modify and style them to create the pattern to your liking.

Step 3: Add Darts, Seams, and Design Details

Darts are folds sewn into fabric to shape garments. They’re commonly used at the bust, waist, and back to provide a tailored fit. For more advanced pattern makers, consider adding princess seams or pleats for additional flair.

Pattern Making Terminology for Beginners

Key Terms to Know

Before we dive deeper, familiarize yourself with these essential pattern-making terms:

• Dart: A tapered fold sewn into fabric to provide shape.
• Seam Allowance: The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line.
• Grainline: The direction of the fabric threads, crucial for cutting fabric correctly.
• Ease: Extra room added to a pattern for comfort or movement.
• Notches: Small marks that help align pattern pieces during sewing.

Types of Pattern Making Techniques

Flat Pattern Making

The flat pattern is done on the flat, as the name implies.

This is the most common technique, where patterns are created by flatly drawing on paper based on measurements using Pattern paper, a French curve, a straight ruler, and a pencil to create manual flat patterns. CAD software is used to create digital flat patterns. The drafting methods for creating flat patterns are the same whether you do it digitally or by hand. Flat pattern making is ideal for straightforward garments like skirts, shirts, dresses, trousers etc

Draping

In draping, fabric is pinned onto a dress form to create a garment’s shape. The fabric is then marked and transferred to paper to create a pattern. This method is more artistic and works well for intricate designs like ball gowns or evening dresses.

Advanced Pattern Making: Transforming Basic Blocks

Once you’re comfortable with basic blocks, you can start transforming them into more complex designs. This could mean converting a bodice block into a stylish wrap dress or adding flared sleeves to a basic sleeve block.

Pattern Grading: Scaling Your Patterns

Pattern grading involves increasing or decreasing the size of a pattern while maintaining its proportions. This is crucial for designing garments in various sizes. There are grading rulers and tools, or for more advanced pattern makers, software that assists with this process.

Best Pattern Making Books 

Over the years, I’ve come across several pattern-making books that have been incredibly helpful for both beginners and professionals. Here are my top picks:

1. “Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Helen Joseph-Armstrong: A comprehensive guide ideal for fashion students and aspiring designers. You can get it using this link: https://rstyle.me/+0BNNGIO2RJ5QiIobtPDb0w
2. “The Complete Guide to Patternmaking” by Barbara Emodi: Great for home sewers looking to master pattern alterations.
3. “Metric Pattern Cutting” by Winifred Aldrich: A staple in the world of pattern drafting. You can get it using this link: https://rstyle.me/+ktcczemjKJF87fKstuBSFQ
4. Pattern Cutting and Making Up: The professional approach by Janet Ward and Martin Shoben. You can get it using this link: https://rstyle.me/+ZX0AoXriAIMtCZiWlGZZGA

These books are must-haves in any pattern maker’s library.

Free Pattern Making PDFs: Your Ultimate Resource

If you’re just starting or need templates for practice, I offer *free pattern-making PDFs* that cover basic blocks and specific garments. These PDFs are printable and come with detailed instructions to guide you through the entire process. Click on links below to get your free printables:

Download Michael Rohr Pattern Drafting Book Pdf

https://charnold.com/fractions-into-decimals-conversion-table/

Conclusion: Your Journey in Pattern Making

Pattern making is both a science and an art. It requires precision, creativity, and patience, but the rewards are immense. Whether you’re creating a simple skirt or a custom wedding gown, understanding how to create patterns will set you up for sewing success. With the right tools, practice, and resources (like the free PDFs and books linked throughout this guide), you’ll be well on your way to mastering pattern making.

This guide is just the beginning of your journey. Stay tuned for more in-depth tutorials and tips, as well as advanced techniques that will build upon the foundations you’ve learned here.