In this post, you will learn quick and easy tutorial for how to sew bust darts.
Did you know that the technique of dart manipulation (to make a bust dart) also called the underarm dart? But first, let’s understand what a dart really is.
What is a dart?
A Dart is a fabric manipulation technique that gives the fabric a three dimensional contour by folding the fabric and stitching it to a point- basically giving shape to a garment. It accentuates curves of a body and gives clothes the correct fit.
Most bodice designs are achieved by dart manipulation or in easy fit garments, by getting rid of the darts completely.
The photo below shows the completed pattern showing the underarm or bust dart and waist dart.
Basic dart positions must always go to the bust point. The photo below shows the various positions that the dart can be transferred and still achieve the desired fit.
But first, do you have your bodice block?
Here is a post I wrote about how to create your own bodice block for your body shape.
Patterns usually start with the front bodice block, as shown below. Click here for how to draft your own bodice block. In this bust dart tutorial, our aim is to shift some of the original waist dart to the underarm position. Here is how to sew a bust darts.
How To Sew Your Bust Dart – Tutorial
Mark 5/8 inch in from each dart leg and draw a line to connect to the dart point as shown below
To shift some of the waist dart, slash open on the Underarm line to the bust point.
Then fold out the original waist dart laying the 5/8 inch lines side by side.
The slashed opening created at the underarm position is your new dart.
Let’s begin sewing bust darts!
On a fresh pattern paper
mark a guide line
Place the bodice block ensuring that the center front line is aligned with the guide line. Then trace around the new shape marking all the dart positions.
Below is the traced out pattern
Fold the new waist dart in place, true the lines and mark with a tracing wheel as shown.
Follow the traced markings and complete the waist dart as shown.
Repeat the same process to complete the underarm dart as shown in the next four photos below.
Here is the completed pattern.
To complete this pattern for dressmaking, shorten the darts by 1 inch as shown below in red.
And voila, your pattern is ready. Remember to add seam allowances on all sides before cutting out on fabric.
Check out more details in this instagram post
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