In this post, I will explain the difference between darted and dartless bodice blocks, with regards to what they mean and how they are used when making garments. If you would like a detailed guide on how to draft your darted and dartless bodice blocks, click here to get the Pattern drafting Manual. You can also click here to see how I used the blocks to make beautiful Trendy Wrap Cardigan; part 1 for making the pattern and part 2 for the sewing process.
First, lets define what a block is; a Block is a representation of body measurements on paper using either your personal measurements or standard measurements. A Bodice Block is a foundational block used in garment construction to create the upper portion of a garment, such as a dress or a blouse. These blocks are usually paired with Sleeve Blocks to create sleeved garments. There are two main types of bodice blocks: darted and dartless. Did you know that you can also scale up or down your bodice blocks to make it easier when practising how to make your sewing patterns. You can check out my previous post where I show you how to scale your patterns.
Although we generally tend to refer to these foundational blocks for the upper part of a garment as bodice blocks, note that a Bodice Block is drafted up to the waist, while a Torso Block is drafted up to the hip. For the sake of simplicity, I will use bodice block to include both here.
What is a Darted Bodice Block?
A Darted Bodice Block has darts, which are triangular shaped tucks that are stitched into the fabric to shape the garment to the body. Darts are usually placed at the bust, waist, or hip area, and they help to create a more fitted and flattering silhouette. A darted bodice block is commonly used for close-fitting garments, such as form-fitting dresses and blouses, as it allows for a more precise fit. Below is a set of darted bodice block ; front and back along with a corresponding sleeve block.
What is a Dartless Bodice Block
On the other hand, a dartless bodice block does not have any darts. Instead, it has a more relaxed and loose fit, as the fabric is not shaped to the body. Dartless bodice blocks are commonly used for loose-fitting garments, such as tunics and relaxed-fit dresses. They are also useful for making patterns for children or for those who have a difficult time fitting into a darted bodice block.
In conclusion, the difference between a darted and dartless bodice block is the presence or absence of darts. The type of bodice block you choose will depend on the desired fit of your garment and the body type of the person you are making the garment for. It is also possible to convert from a darted bodice block to create a dartless bodice block or from a dartless bodice block to a darted bodice block.